Re-solder the wire into the same spot on the replacement GuliKit module. If you want to preserve that function, then use your soldering iron to heat up the solder that’s in place on the old module and gently pull the exposed copper wire out of the solder. If you don’t care about this feature, you can cut or pull off the cable and the sticks will work just fine without that capability. This cable is solely for sensing when your thumbs are resting on the stick. The sticks are connected to the modules with a tiny red cable which is soldered in place. With the modules removed, you need to take the analog sticks themselves off of the old modules and onto the new ones. With those four points of contact removed, the analog stick should pull right out with a little pressure from the underside (the front of the Steam Deck).
Use your tweezers to lift up the protective flap on the ribbon cable, then remove the screws. Replace the rear Steam Deck body panel and place the eight body screws back in, and you’re ready to go Your Steam Deck now has upgraded, drone controller-style hall effect joysticks, and. With the rear interior of the Steam Deck exposed, you should be able to see the right and left stick modules immediately, held in place by three screws each.
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